General Print Info for all packs:

PLA or ABS.
Preferably print in PLA, as printing in ABS is possible, but can be subject to warping. ABS prints will be more resistant and can be sanded and worked upon post-process but precautions must be taken particularly with square corners where a small up-lift will be seen due to warping. I mention this because there are a LOT of square corners on this project.
Everything else will print more than fine with ABS. ABS is specially good with overhangs and models will come out nicely. 
To solve problems with corner uplift with ABS prints, add circular supports just to the corners and use a brim. Rafts will not really solve the problem with large tiles as these are already segmented to avoid linear incrementation of warping. Rafts may work well with other non tile pieces.
If printing with ABS, use a heat-bed at 90 - 110 degrees and use hairspray or some other stick additive of your choice.
If printing with PLA use a heat-bed at 70 degrees. You may choose not to use a heat-bed, but then you are on your own. Try hairspray, might help.
It is not recommended that you print with a nozzle size lower than .3 if you are printing in ABS. Use PLA and a high heat setting for .2 nozzels as PLA is more fluid and can be extruded a lot easier than ABS.
HIPS(High Impact Polystyrene) is also a nice alternative to ABS and will warp slightly less.

SLA or FDM.
Use a FDM(Filament Deposition Modelling) or a SLA/DLP(Stereo Lithography) machine to print these files. Most of these models are meant for FDM type printers, but we have included HiRES models for those who want to go for high detail prints with SLA machines. One of the problems with SLA machines though is that many will not have the print size bed requirements for these models. So models must either be scaled down to fit on your SLA sized print bed or the model cut up into printable sizes using a software such as Meshmixer.
FDM Printers can print LoRES or Normal designs provided, there is no point in slicing and printing a HiRES model as most FDM printers will miss the details. Having said this, if you own an FDM that can Nozzle 100 - 200 microns(.1 - .2 Nozzle size), then this detail will show and it would be worth it.

Layer and Nozzle settings.
SLA printers can work on a layer height around 50 to 100 microns for best results. With large terrain pieces like this, it is not worth going lower than this. Although this is generally true, it is down to your printer and what it can achieve.
With an FDM printer, you should use a .3 or .4 nozzle(300 - 400 Microns) .5 nozzle will still work and give you a quick and rough print, just depends what you are after.
If you want to print HiRES with an FDM then you will need a .1 or .2 Nozzle. You can also get away with using a little trick with a .3 nozzle. If you lower the layer height to 10-15 microns, then you are squeezing the nozzle tight and you can tell the slicer you are printing with a .26 nozzle.
You should work with a layer height between 10 - 30 microns. Depending on what you are printing and what nozzle you are using. Generally for large prints go for 24 micron layer height, whist detailed prints will require down to 15 microns. Warning, large prints at 15 microns can take upto 60 hours, so choose correctly for each piece or part. Sometimes the detail resolution obtained is practically un-appraisable, but the time is quadrupled!

Slicer
We have tried all the files with Cura v2.6 and Slic3r. Large files typically take 45 minutes to slice on an average PC. HiRES files can take up to 2 hours, so be patient, the program is slicing, donīt despair and wait till it ends.

Post Process Work.
Use superglue(Cyanoacrylate) to glue pieces if they are not going to be handled continiuosly there after, if not, use two part Epoxy.
To get a stronger and more malleable bond with superglue, put a drop of superglue and sprinkle some baking powder on it. The bond will be dirtier than usual, because of the excess powder, but will be extremely strong. Take care with your fingers!
To 'Pin' use a 1mm drill bit to drill a hole into each part that is to be affixed. Then get a thin wire of the appropriate size(paper-clips are good) and pin it in-between the two pieces, using glue fix them in place. This method will give you strong and permanent compound bonds.
To glue larger flat surfaces, sand lightly first, leaving a slight rough finish. Then clean with alcohol or acetone and apply glue, preferably clamp together whilst drying.
If using ABS, you can obtain a smoother finish on your model by using a brush and Acetone to smooth parts down. You can also give the model an acetone bath or use an acetone vapour chamber for an overall glazed finish.
In PLA, simply primer your work with a high quality acrylic spray paint primer. Apply many light coats with a few minutes of interval and then let dry for 24 hours. Then sand slightly were needed and re-apply primer again if necessary. Repeat till required finish is achieved.

We will be hosting tutorials on our website in the near future. Visit our site to view our products and support us! Lovecraft Design and Manufacture.
https://i-lovecraft.com/

Please visit our Facebook and follow us. We would love it if you reviewed our product. Please review this product at.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/lovecraftproductions/reviews/