First, you'll need to cut out a 6" rectangular section from your base material. The base can be any width, but 2" should do nicely. Since you can have up to six razor wire sections in a scenario, cut out six bases – you might as well make 'em all right now.

Razor wire is supported by a bunch of wooden struts that keep the wire in place on the battlefield – time to make these crossbeams. Measure and cut out about a 1.25" length of the balsa stick. Use this length as your template and cut out another of equal length (you don't have to be too precise). Repeat this until you have 12 separate 1.25" sticks.

Now, grab two small sticks. Make two diagonal, parallel slashes across the width of a single stick an inch up from the base. Make the cuts through about half the depth of the wood, but not completely through the stick.

Next, slide your blade into one of the slashes and carve out the wood chunk between them. You should now have a notch into which the other stick can fit snugly. Place a dab of white glue in the notch and insert the other stick to make your crossbeam.

Once you've made six supports from the 12 sticks and glued them together, it is time to cut them so they'll stand upright and level (sort of). All you have to do is cut a triangular bit off the bottom to make the crossbeam sit level. Check out the images above to see how to do it. Repeat this procedure until you have a healthy pile of wooden "X" supports ready to be affixed to the base.

Now, it's time place all the supports on the base. Although it seems like a good idea to just plain glue 'em down, it's not. Sure, we'll be applying glue, but more support is necessary. Enter epoxy putty. Green stuff along with super glue makes for an extremely tough bond that will help keep your crossbeams from breaking off during gameplay.

First, plot out how you want the supports arranged on the base. We drew a curved line on our plasticard base. Once you've decided on the general layout, place a blob of super glue on the foot of each crossbeam and stick it in place on the base. Do this for each "X" and wait for the glue to dry. While you wait, grab the epoxy putty and mix up a fresh batch. Roll it into a thin line with the thickness of a paper clip.

Now is the time to place battlefield rubble onto your bases before we cover it with sand . Use old guns, arms, weapon bitz, cut up plasticard, vehicle bitz, and any other detritus you have on hand. Once these bitz dry, texture the base with a coat of white glue followed by a mix of fine and coarse sand. Paint the razor wire patch as you see fit and set it aside for now.

Gather up your 22-gauge wire (thick), 26-gauge wire (thin), clippers, and super glue. You can find both types of wire at your local hardware or craft store.

First, cut off a 22" length of the 22-guage wire. Straighten it out so it'll be a bit easier to work with. Now, wrap the thinner, 26-gauge wire around one end of the 22-gauge wire. Make a sort of knot by going around and around the wire a couple of times. Then, place a drop of super glue on this knotted area to secure it. This glued knot will make the next steps much, much easier.

With the glue dry, begin twisting the 26-gauge wire (while it is still on the spool) around the thicker, 22-gauge wire in a helix pattern. Continue going round and round until you get to the end of the 22-gauge wire. Try and keep your coils fairly close together. Once you've wrapped the thinner wire all the way to the end of the thicker 22 gauge wire, wrap a knot with the wiring and seal it with some super glue like you did when you started wrapping.

Dig up a thick pen, marker, or other cylindrical object that's about 1/2" thick. Wrap your length of twisted wiring around the object until you can't wrap any more and then slide it off. This process will give you a good bundle of curved razor wire. Place this aside and repeat for any other razor wire patches you plan on making. Quickly paint the razor wire before moving on.

Attach one end of the razor wire to the first crossbeam in the line. Try to place this first point of contact in the area where the two sticks meet in the center of the "X". Use a single dot of super glue and patiently wait for it to dry. Since the wire is probably coiled together tightly, stretch out the razor wire a bit so that it is as long as the base.

Carefully fit the razor wire to the center of each support crossbeam. It's a good idea to lay the entire length of wire across the base before you begin gluing. This way, if there is a problem further down the line, you can correct it now. Don't be afraid to bend the wire a bit if necessary. In fact, you will have to do this in a few spots for the wire to sit nicely. Once the razor wire is strung to your liking, finish with a drop of super glue at each point that the wire meets with the support struts.