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Getting Started with Warhammer 40,000
Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures Catalog

Gaming
- The Amber Prison of Tikgrix
- Choose Your Own 40K
- Revised 40K FAQs
- Revised Vehicles & Assault
- 40K Escalation Leagues
- Facts about FAQs
- Struggle for Vor'Anoth
- Tactics for 40K Flyers
- Return to Space Hulk

Painting and Modeling
- Display Trays
- Freehand Decals
- Basic Modeling
- Creature Feature
- Weapons of War

Terrain
- New 40K Tables
- Comm Bunker
- Top 10 Scenery Tips
- Basic Texturing
- $50 Scenery
- Defensive Terrain


ARMIES OF THE 40K UNIVERSE

Chaos Space Marines
Daemonhunters
Dark Eldar
Eldar
Imperial Guard
Necrons
Orks
Space Marines
Tau
Tyranids
Witch Hunters

40K SUPPLEMENTS

Chapter Approved
Cityfight
Eye of Terror

BUILDING A MAGNETIZED ARMY DISPLAY BASE
Picture showing the hardboard sliding into the frame.
Picture of the pine inner frame pieces.
Picture showing how to staple the pine inner frame corners.
Click the images to see larger versions.
Step 5
 
Fitting the MDF Hardboard. Much like when you cut the piece of foamcore to fit the frame, the same must be done with a sheet of 3/16"-thick MDF "Masonite" hardboard. Carefully measure and then cut out your piece with a table saw or jigsaw. If you lack a table saw like most folks, there's still hope. When you go to pick up the MDF hardboard at a home-improvement store or whatever, you can ask around for a bit of help. Nine times out of 10, someone will be glad to cut the wood to your dimensions. You might have to do some sanding to get the hardboard to fit snugly. Grab some sandpaper and get to work if this is the case. Elbow grease (or a belt sander!) will do the job. Once the hardboard fits, mark it with an arrow just like you did the foamcore to help denote the exact way the hardboard should fit within the frame.
Step 6
 
Slap the Support Frame Together. You should have a few feet of 1/2" x 3/4" pine trim in your possession. You'll need enough to make a support frame within the main frame that you will attach to the hardboard. Yeah, it's sounds confusing, but bear with me here. Pine trim is pretty cheap, so get a foot or so more than you really need in case of mistakes. Now, carefully measure the inside of the frame and cut four pieces of trim to fit snugly within the frame. Remember to subtract the width of the trim (3/4") when measuring out the two "side" pieces. You want to end up with the trim being 1/2" thick, not 3/4". In other words, just make sure the the "fat" side of the wood lies down on the hardboard. Once the pieces fit in the frame, take em' out, place em' on a flat surface, and use a staple gun with an L-Square to connect 'em.
Picture of the finished pine inner frame.
Picture showing how to drill the guide hole in the inner frame.
Picture of the inner frame screwed down to the hardboard.
Step 7
 
Attach the Support Frame. Make sure your newly created support frame still fits within the main frame right on top of the hardboard and foamcore. Like the foamcore and hardboard before it, mark the support frame so you know exactly where it is supposed to sit within the main frame. Pop out all the contents of the frame and place it aside for now. Carefully line up the support frame with the back side of the hardboard so that all the markings meet up as if they were within the frame. Screw the support frame onto the hardboard with 5/8" wood screws. Try to find slimmer screws or pre-drill your holes to keep the wood from splitting.
Picture of the inner frame and hardboard sitting in the picture frame.
Picture showing how to staple the foamcore to the hardboard.
Picture of the foamcore attached to the hardboard.
Step 8
 
Complete the "Sandwich." Seat the support frame and hardboard into the main frame to complete the "sandwich" of various materials. Flip the main frame over, make sure everything is pushed in and lined up, and then use the staple gun to attach the foamcore for good. Staple strategically, especially in the corners and near the edges. The staples will keep the foamcore in place and stop it from warping when the glue and sand dries later. Also, the sand will cover up the staples, so don't worry about 'em from a cosmetic sense.
Picture of the fender washers.
Picture showing how to add glue to the hardboard under the foamcore holes.
Picture showing how to drop the fender washers into the foamcoare slots.
Step 9
 
Start Layin' Down Fenders. With the inner "sandwich" all done, break out the pile of fender washers. Apply a decent amount of super glue to each exposed circle, press a washer into place, hold for a few seconds, and move to the next vacant spot. Keep goin' until the foamcore gaps are filled with washers. Due to the massive amount of fumes you'll be generating, it might be wise to do this step outdoors, or at least in a well-ventilated room with windows. After all, no one wants to wake up on the floor after an unknown amount of time covered in glue, fender washers, and dirt.
Introduction - Supplies

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