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Getting Started with Warhammer 40,000
Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures Catalog

Gaming
- The Amber Prison of Tikgrix
- Choose Your Own 40K
- Revised 40K FAQs
- Revised Vehicles & Assault
- 40K Escalation Leagues
- Facts about FAQs
- Struggle for Vor'Anoth
- Tactics for 40K Flyers
- Return to Space Hulk

Painting and Modeling
- Display Trays
- Freehand Decals
- Basic Modeling
- Creature Feature
- Weapons of War

Terrain
- New 40K Tables
- Comm Bunker
- Top 10 Scenery Tips
- Basic Texturing
- $50 Scenery
- Defensive Terrain


ARMIES OF THE 40K UNIVERSE

Chaos Space Marines
Daemonhunters
Dark Eldar
Eldar
Imperial Guard
Necrons
Orks
Space Marines
Tau
Tyranids
Witch Hunters

40K SUPPLEMENTS

Chapter Approved
Cityfight
Eye of Terror

BUILDING A MAGNETIZED ARMY DISPLAY BASE
Picture of all four plastic feet hammered in place.
Picture showing how to apply the wood glue around the foamcore holes.
Picture of the sand drying over the glue.
Click the images to see larger versions.
Step 13
 
Add Some Texture. Slather wood glue onto the foamcore with an old brush while carefully avoiding each of the washer holes. It's okay to place glue near the lip of a washer hole, but it's a better idea to give each one a bit of breathing room. In terms of the area underneath vehicles, you can leave most of it alone. After all, it's out of sight underneath the vehicle. The most important thing here is to leave an exposed area of foamcore about 1/4" all the way around the base. Why? Because the main picture frame probably has a slight lip that will grind against the sand. Just trust me on this one, kids. A final bit of advice: glue and spread sand in manageable stages so it doesn't dry up on you.
Picture of the sanded foamcore.
Picture showing how to seal the foam rims in each slot.
Picture of the sealed rims.
Step 14
 
Pre-Primer Work. We're almost ready to paint at this stage, but some minor prep work is necessary. First, shake off ALL the loose sand. Use an old tank brush to really get into the recesses of the washer holes and eliminate as much excess sand as possible. Next, the exposed foamcore needs to be sealed so that the spray primer doesn't eat away the innards of the foamcore. With Chaos Black, paint the inner edges of each washer hole. You don't have to be perfect, just slop it on there and get good coverage.
Picture showing black primer being applied to the board.
Picture of Ty painting the board.
Picture of the finished board.
Step 15
 
Prime, Paint, Flock. Yup, pretty self-explanatory. Paint the tray so that it matches your bases and then add static grass (or don't – it's your call). Remember to paint the exposed foamcore lip with a reasonably subtle, earthy color like Scorched Brown or something.
Picture showing how to apply the wood glue inside the frame.
Picture showing how  to slide the frame in place within the picture frame.
Picture showing how to hammer in the final support nails.
Step 16
 
Seat the Display in the Frame. Excited yet? You're nearly there! Carefully line the inside of the main frame with a tiny line of wood glue (don't overdo it). This glue will accomplish two things. For one thing, it'll make sure the inner frame stays put when it dries. Secondly, it'll act as a lubricant when you seat the inner frame, making your life a wee bit easier. With the line of glue laid down, line up all your arrows on the frames and press that sucker into place. With the display firmly seated, secure it in place for good by hammering a nail at an angle through the inner frame and into the main frame. It's OK if the nail gets bent a bit and you have to mash it into the frame, it's all out of sight – so long as the nail is doing its job. It's a really good idea to place the main frame onto some soft material so you don't scrape it up when you do all this hammering.
Introduction - Supplies

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